Originally uploaded by chris.warn
The mighty hunter captures an image involving great danger, well snapped and ran!
Part 2 – Chris 13/11 November 13, 2007
Originally uploaded by chris.warn
Soph managed to capture this brills image of a giraffe, luckily he walked up to us!
The last blog from South Africa part 1 – Chris 13/11 November 13, 2007
Originally uploaded by chris.warn
Well we are back in Pietermaritzburg heading North to Jo’burg, with a night drive ahead of us to ditch Marco at the Avis near the airport in the early hours. So back to our favourite internet cafe come laundrette for the final time. The last two days have really been saving the best to last. After the last blog we stayed in the ‘gay friendly’ Prince Alfred Road Backpackers, run by a bloke called Andre, smashing fella, but I didn’t let Soph leave my side the whole visit. Clean and comfortable digs though and slept beneath a pink mosquito net hung above the bed and woke to light streaming through the pink mesh curtains – it was lovely! From there we left to explore the Gwahumbe Lodge near Eston, which had been recommended to us by the guy who ran the Blue Haze Hotel. We arrived in the outback and as we were driving up the very grand drive way through swaying sugar cane fields, we thought ‘this is NOT going to be cheap!’ and so it transpired, but by this time we had decided that we were going to go for it and pay regardless. Arrived at lunchtime and Ali the lady at the desk (from East Sussex originally) signed us in as we tried not to cry at the room prices. As we were led to our room, it became clear why we were spending the money, it was a beautiful place, all lush greenery, plunge pools and thatched terraces. Dumped the bags and then grabbed a map of the game reserve, we turned down the offer of a battery powered ‘rhino’ (like a heavy duty 4×4 golf cart with attitude) so we could walk the paths ourselves and get a feel of real Africa – well i turned down the buggy and Soph stared at me with some barely concealed venomous hatred (like the Drakkensburg hike all over again I’m afraid). Anyway we donned Merrells (shoes) and started the hike. 50 hard yards later we stopped so Soph could change back into her flip flops because her feet were getting all hot and itchy! The great explorers went forth! Anyway it was a hot but lovely walk down the track towards the lodge and waterfall area. On the way we saw giraffe at a distance, wildebeast (they scarpered as soon as they spotted our painfully badly chosen t-shirts, bright red and bright blue, ie just after we left the lodge), impala, zebra and springbok. It was fantastic though because there was no fence seperating us from them and although they didn’t get any closer than 50 metres it was fun. Anyway we waltzed down to the river, entering a wooded gorge, with towering red stone and granite cliffs on each side and birds cawing in real jungle stylee and spent a pleasant hour sitting by a waterfall which plunged into a pool, in which we were told that we could swim ‘at our own risk’ now what the hell does that mean? to us it meant crocodiles or sharks or piranhas or something grim, anyway no swimming for us! It really was straight out of the Tarzan movies, absolutely stunning and something we failed to capture on the camera. Not many animals in this part, but as we backtracked to go into the other area of the park, we met the ranger in his ‘rhino’ (i thought Soph was going to rhino-jack him and push him in the river) he said that if we saw the real rhino we should maintain a safe distance from them, without actually specifying what that distance was, hhhmm. Would you believe it but another 1/2 mile up the path we saw an adult rhino with baby probably about 200 metres away (and no fences) – it looked well hard! It was nerve racking, but using my Naval training I was able to tell Soph that they can barely see and rely heavily on their sense of smell and that we were down-wind so there was no danger…..you can imagine the reaction. Anyway had to try and get closer, so ignoring my wife’s sensible instructions I made like a bootneck and crept to within spitting distance, well about 100metres cowering behind a tree, but you get the picture (or you will in the next photo blog!) it was a great experience, but Soph still thinks i was foolish! we then went the long way round to avoid further interaction with the armoured beastie and went to a lookout post over the hippo pool, where with a bit of patience in the face of fast approaching black clouds we stayed around until, relief, a hippo surfaced and (using the Taylor-Simes present of the spy glass) we got a good gander at this massive pink/grey snorting animal, apparently one of the more dangerous in these parts. We only saw the Hippopotamus, we didn’t see his hippopota-missus! (come on, i laughed like a drain at that) It was a fitting culmination to our walk and we wandered back to the lodge well chuffed. We had a celebratory glass or two of the complimentary sherry (or similar) and had a snooze as the rain swept in, relaxed, happy and a bit drunk, what better way to travel. We woke expecting to have a standard sit down meal at 1900, but when we entered the main building the ranger was there, full khaki kit and ironed socks, and he led us out of the building and across the car park (where were we going, maybe he knew of Soph’s plans to steal his jeep-ette) he then opened up the doors of their spa area and they had set out a table for two with candles/fairy lights, all the food was pre-prepared (salmon salad, fillet steaks and choccy fondue with freshly cut fruit) and they had a huge bath filled with hot, soapy, pre-essential oiled water. Wow, you could have knocked us over, apparently whenever there was only one couple staying (lucky Soph strikes again) they did this as a special treat. Amazing, felt massively privileged. This pampering led to the perfect final night in a hotel in South Africa. Today we have been running around, suffering the beaurocracy of the Indian Consulate in Durban, but we didn’t really care because we were still on a high. Have got our Indian visas now and are going to do an overnight drive, straight to the Airport and sleep when we get there – cheap and back to the ‘real’ world of the budget traveller! Anyway South Africa has been a country of contrasts which has never failed to be exciting, interesting and unfailingly beautiful and suprising. We’ve met good people along the way who have been really kind to us (took pity probably) and eaten like kings without busting the budget or belts just, great place with the complications of being a society that hasn’t yet sorted everything out. Onwards and sideways to the East and Madagascar.
Chris Photo Trial 11/11 November 11, 2007
Originally uploaded by chris.warn
Trial run again for photos put through flickr site. fingers crossed this will work and I can repeat with more phots.
Drakensburgh is the stuff dreams are made of! 11.11.07 (Soph) November 11, 2007
Hello all you lovely people ,we are in Pietermaritzburg (yes i did have to ask Chris how to spell it) Great place.we have found a internet cafe where we can do our laundry and have a smoothie(98% fat free.)It’s brilliant ,so we are spending our Sunday lunch catching up with things in style.
We have just returned from 2 days in Drakensburg hills.This is probably the best few days for me as the countryside has been so beautiful and we have been treated to views that we normally only ever see on big blockbuster films.Glorious!
After our last blog we spent the night in a backpackers in Pietermaritzburgh.Quite a strange one as we camped in the owners back garden next to the compost and chickens(you have to take the rough with the smooth.)
They lived in a massive victorian style house that was full of art and ethnic throws.Quite hippyish and we felt a little strange being in their home.We were woken at 5.30,unbelievably it was not by the smell,but the sound of birds squawking.The birds here are really abundant and noisy. some of them are beautiful but some make a noise like an electric alarm clock.We don’t know what they are called but when we are talking about them at 5 in the morning in our tent,we give them our own special names.
Any way after an abrupt awakening and waking to find i could not turn my head to the right,my first camping injury, we set off for the hills,occasionally singing “run to the hills”Iron Maiden stylie.
Arrived at a stunning lodge named Inkosana lodge at the base of Champagne Mountain.we were sent up to the back to camp and put our little tent in one of the most beautiful settings i have seen so far.360 degree view of lush green mountains with rivers breaking up the space.No other houses,huts or people outside the camp.Amazing and massively vast and humbling.
We decided on a short yomp,i thought 2km due to severe neck injury,chris thought 5 km.We ended up setting off at midday,no mad dogs,just us in the midday sun.We walked in flip flops and when we had to fill in the form to enter the treking area we ticked the boxes saying we had mobiles,first aid kit,warm weather wear,2 bottles of water and topped in off by giving a fake telephone number to contact if needed.All lies and very irresponsible,sorry mum!
The walk was great and we walked to fresh water pools and a waterfall. Unfortunately, after over 2km in burning sun my hormonal temper spoilt the middle of the walk and i stomped as best i could wearing thin flip flops and my top on my head in a turban fashion.Poor lovely Chris avoiding my eye contact as he had sneakily moved us up to the 5km walk.However it was worth it ,the views were incredible and the greenery such a change from our previous desert trip. We looked out for baboons as recommended but did not see any,on our return we found out they were all in the cafe having a banana split(Wey hey!)
Back to the camp for a Braai with other walkers.We met 2 german men with strong jaws both fluent in english and french skills, who had walked for 8 hours literally up a cliff that day as well as spending the last 5 months in Madagascar completing stats at nature parks for their masters.Chris and i left the young talented,hansome ,kind men agreeing that the only reason they had accomplished so much at such a young age was because they were clearly telling porkies and that we were in fact as brilliant as them.
We met up with a lovely brother and sister for Chicago(great accents)over dinner and cackled over her story of being arrested in Belgium in the 70’s over a coffee spoon stealing accusation.Great fun!
After a bit of star gazing at a huge clear twinkling sky we slept like logs.We woke to hot tent tourture at 6, if the birds won’t get you then the sun will!
Off to discover the hills Spioenkop where the battles with Boers and English led to over 300 men being buried in 1900.Again amazing views in all direction and left very much like a cemetry,very nicely done,no theme rides of fancy dress!Special interest to the Liverpool footie supporters my husband informed me ,so boysie and Dave Beavis,this trip was for you.If anyone ever comes here bring a full body mesh suit because the flies are unbearable.
Short drive to Ladysmith where the well researched travellers that we are, discovered the museum was indeed shut on Saturday afternoons and we had just been half an hour too late.Chris then blamed this on the kind man at the lodge for talking to us for long, apologies Ed,that means you!
This in a way was a blessing(for me,) as we headed for a lovely lodge to settle early.I could tell instantly from the managers look of disgust when i asked if we could camp,that this was indeed a little up market.After a short powwow and some self congratulation on coming under budget 3 days running(Hurray!) we decided to treat our selves to a double room with ensuite.1 hour of cooing over the T.V ,towels,massive shower,a.c and kettle later and we had a swim in the most unbelievable swimming pool,set on a hill.The edge of the pool overlooked a massive green valley with a clear blue ripple free lake ,blue skies and birdsong.It reminded me of a gangsta video(not the bird song so much) when they do the dancing in the pool business.As un gangsta as we are, we spent about 30 minutes trying to put the camera on timer and get a photo of us with the view behind us.This mostly involved photos of one of us surfacing too late,not in the shot at all or posing with no photo being taken.
I guess it is one of those places where you have to be there to take it all in and we bobbed about soaking up all the beauty and agreeing we were very lucky people and wishing you lot could be with us to see it all too.
Not much has happened since that,lots of lovely food,big sleep in proper bed and a painful bill paid.Its now sunday and we are hoping to have another luxury night and maybe a rhinno and hippo sigting to tell you about.Thats if the visa card still comes good,we may be asking friends to sell our furniture for us soon.
With any luck we will get our visas for India tomorrow from Durban!
Love to you all and especially to lamb,thorpskie and karkett who have all been in touch.I love hearing from!
Mr Warn is blogging next and judging from stats(yes we are monitoring you)he gets more comments.So far we have had 1828 hits on our blogg!We are still working on the photos as its quite tricky to get them down loaded and it makes my husband swear alot,even on the sabbath!
Quick hello to Pat and Roger too as i know they would love the birds here.The birds sing like crazy and are stunning.We saw some that looked like goldfish and have seen,falcons,yellow birds.And when they are not singing the frogs and crickets take over.Its so loud some evenings you feel like you are shouting above it.The Garden Route was brill for bird watching too!
Well thats all folks!Thanks for looking at the Blogg we love doing it and get ridiculously excited when we get comments.Let us know of anything we could change!
BYEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE
Wilderness continued – C 8/11 November 8, 2007
Anyway, we missed the turning to ‘Hole in the Wall’ and continued to Coffee Bay, which was a beautiful beach with an estuary running into it. We really thought about staying until we met the space cadet running their Back Packers, she was just so VAGUE and we were already looking at each other doubtfully when she uttered the phrase ‘ well tonight we’re having a big fire and you can do free style dance and then we ‘re going to have a drum circle, it’ll be so cool’ – we resisted the urge to scream and punch her in the face, going instead for the more tactful, pretending to get our bags and just driving off. Back along the same roads to find the exit for ‘hole in the wall’ and this time successful. It was fantastic, white sands on the beach and a safe large back packers enclosed in the grounds of a hotel, much more our scene.
We tented the first night and moved to a roundel hut the second and apart from getting soem serious chewing off the local bug population everything was good. Met up in the poolside bar after an average steak dinner (sorry the hotel has run out of cheese and salad) and got talking to 2 SAs from Witbank Pretoria, Gary and Giselde and 2 brit foreign office civil servants Mark and Heidi. BRILLIANT night ensued, Stro Rum (80% proof), shooters, lots of rugby talk (soph loved it) and then suprise, suprise Mark and Heidi disappear and come back with a full cheeseboard (with European cheeses), red wine and PORT (Pete you would have loved it) don’t know where they got it from, but next day found out that they were travelling in a Landrover that was so well equipped it prepared their meals for them, awesome. Next day was scorchingly hot, why is that always the case when you’re hanging. Got up early as the tent heated up and our neighbours were shouting about ‘whales’ and we used their binos to look at a few of them frolicking (or whatever whales do) in the bay, now come on is that good or what (Soph has asked me to add that at Hermanus a week ago, we also saw about 8-10 whales in the bay there, jumping noses out of the water and slapping there tails, it was pretty brilliant, a couple of them sort of did a sail past the shore as well, show offs!. Went for a swim, sea still refreshingly chilly to sober up and had a nice day in the sun. Over to our new friends for further laughter and a braai (BBQ) with pap and steaks – lovely. Highlight of the evening was Soph being hit in the side of the head by a flying dung beetle, wow did she shout screaming ‘aaghh it’s a flying mouse’ – fair play to her though it was mahoosive! On road again next day after a short look at the hole..
Inland towards Durban, up Mount Frere where the weather turned bad again and we were driving in 30ft viz, but finally back to coast for an uneventful stay in the Marlin Hotel, not much to say about this Torquay of Africa, but apparently large chunks of the movie Zulu were filmed nearby – I for one didn’t see ‘fousands of ‘em’. Next day 0630 start, into Durban and with great navigational skill straight to the Indian Consulate to apply for visas, not as difficult as we thought, but we can’t pick them up for a few days making it tight with our flight to Madagascar, still we could have done all this in UK if more organised! After Consulate, we drove back south retracing our steps to Warners Beach for backpacker digs in the ‘Irie’ , lovely place and the sun shining again, so straight onto beach, where i used all my professional knowledge to help a kitesurfer lauch, fortunately although tempted did not go for swim as saw these flags as we were leaving beach – why didn’t we see them as we walked onto it??
Have tried for last couple of days to update blog, but internet access patchy and we’ve seen electrical cuts as well which knock everything out, so it has been a bit wild for sure. anyway all going well, still safe and now in Pietermaritzburg on way inland again to the Drakensburg (dragon mountains) which sond like they should be in wales. If any of you reading this haven’t made any comments yet in reply to the blogs, get your arses in gear and drop us a line, we love getting them!
Last point, soph is well but i think there may be something up with her teeth!
We’ve been to the wilderness (and back fortunately!) C – 8/11 November 8, 2007
Well you may have thought we’d been eaten by lions or something equally as terrible, more likely mossies to be honest, but we’re ok. After last blog we have been to some pretty wild places (wild, they were livid!) and have seen a lot of Africa. After Mossel bBay we stayed in two lovely Back packers, here we experienced kindness, good socials and NO loved up hippies/young gap year travellers, thank goodness. The town of Wilderness was beautiful, fantastic surfing beach and our first swim in the Indian Ocean – it was freezing see photo (nice pink towel/skin, very confident about myself). We walked along the beach with the sea spray hitting our faces and the fog lay like a blanket all down the coast, ran back past all the huge beach houses that you could barely see in the rain, it reminded me of that movie ‘big villas in the mist’
The Fairy knowle backpackers, run by Monika was great camped there and had lovely booze round camp fire with SAs Bertie and Giselle and fellow travellers Sian and Dillon, all very nice and learnt some stuff about India ie don’t drink the water! The next day we woke to drizzle, so more beach time was a no-no, otherwise we would have stayed there. Off to Storms river, via Plettenburg. Very scenic and saw a troop? of baboons in the road as we meandered through the lovely forests of the Nature Valley. Large yellow wood trees which used to stretch from Cape Town to Port Elizabeth and now only this small area left, well done the English!
That night Soph bit poorly so we splashed out and stayed at the Didge backpackers in the rain in a double room with a tin, zebra striped sink (very nice, tried to get it off wall, but Leatherman wasn’t up to the task). Stayed in front of fire, reading and loafing on sofa for most of day, talking to other travellers and drinking coffee, but felt strange like we should have been doing something. Met up with some Yanks who were doing a similar thing to us and Joel was 38 making me feel very comfortable, maybe we’ll meet up in India their next port of call – he does owe me a beer! The next day we didn’t bungy off the highest bridge jump in the world (216m) instead went for the more sedate Canopy Line Tour 30 metres off the deck zipping through the forest, unfortunately no photos but it was funny hearing Soph fly along, the Lewi birds and buzzards weren’t the only thing skawking in the trees that morning, actually she was v brave and didn’t cry even when asked to walk across a dodgy looking bridge made of a rusty metal ladder. We had a great time doing it, but knew we were ging to have to drive fast to get north to accom. That’s exactly how it turned out and a mammoth drive awaited us before we got to Kidd’s Beach the start of the Wild Coast, but actually a bit like a retirement resort. Limped to the Seaview guest house to be charged a huge amount for average digs, hey ho the joys of not booking. In the morning it was a bit fawlty towers as well, and Mary ‘the christian’ as we called herwas very tight with the toast and marmalade. Grim but off again to drive through some scenic back roads, passing through what appeared to be a forest fire which blew smoke all across the road, no-one else seemed to care, just slowed down a very little bit! Also passed a family all splayed on the side of the major road with their car perched almost turning over on a bank, we slowed down to do the decent samaritans thing, but realised that they ahd just stopped for a picnic, either that or they really had had an accident and thought bugger it, let’s get thehamper out – all very surreal. We left the main roads to go off road to find some place called the hole in the wall….(not that one, you Navy boys). Real rough roads, with huge pot-holes that Marco didn’t enjoy (had bit of a bust up, when I made one sharp intake of breath too many and Soph brought the car to a screeching halt to hand me the keys and let me drive) (Gill – Marco is the car). It was a real contrast between the wealth we have seen and what the average Black SA gets up to, throught owns where everyone beeps their horn as if it helps conserve petrol or something, guys carrying goats ‘you want to buy?’ well we thought about it and we could have got a goat in the Renault 21, but not this car!
we are in George,but who washed our car? 1.11.2007(soph) November 1, 2007
Hello all,
great to hear from lots of you,we love getting emails and blogg comments.Just looked at our stats for people looking at our diary and the best day so far had 101 people looking at it,very pleased!
Anyway ,we are now in George on the Garden Route around the south coast.We thought we had started out the garden route a few days ago,but it might not suprise you to know that we got it a little bit wrong.oops!
The weather is gorgeous(sorry,but it is)and we are beaching it today to top up the tan.Its really green here compared to the big plains of the desert and feels a bit like Devon.Stayed at a B and B for a treat last night after a few nights camping.Feel revived and our b and b owner,who we think must be a retired teacher,gave us lots of info(some of it we didnt really want)on where to stay next.Very funny as we came down for breakfast 3 minutes early and he said it was’nt ready yet and we had to go back up to our room.then shut the door and giggled until we were called down,exactly 3 minutes later.
We had our first brush with backpacker hostels last night which was like going back to the 90’s,and made us feel very old.First back packers we tried said they were having a halloween party so would be noisey til early in the morning so half price accommodation.Chris said “until what time,2 ish?” and the girl said probably later,Chris then raised his eyebrows in a suprised and disbelieving manner that a party could go on so late.We stood there like old parents and agreed it was a little too late for us.
Next back packers was full,but added there would be a ‘drum circle’ at the party at other hostel,and said “cool man” alot.Chris and i left very amused and agreed that we would rather grate our own fingers then attend a drum circle late night halloween party.I was laughing so hard i hurt my back at Chris’s disaproval of the hippie backpackers and we spent the rest of the evening agreeing that being old was much more fun.
Yesterday was great fun as we stayed at campsite by the sea.We did our first “runner”but was not really intentional at first,we tried to pay but owner was away and said we would go back later,but we didnt.It was a massive campsite and so we didnt feel to bad about it.
Basking in the triumph of saving about 8 pound from our”mini runner”we went to a wine market to learn a bit about the wine growing of the region.Brilliant fun,not least because we got to drink wine at 10′oclock in the morning.A lovely chat called Paul told us a bit about wines,he did the smelling,gurgling,spitting out stuff and we just drank ours in an apologetic manner.
We picked some wines to send home which was unbelievably exciting and extravagant,so much so that Chris and i have agreed not to talk about the cost of it again,think we got a bit carried away.
Our wine guru looked a little disapointed when we told him we had based our wine selection on the name of the wine(e.g.Devon Rocks,because Devon does rock)and the niceness of the label.He was even more suprised to hear we drank our wine out of yellow plastic beakers ,the shame of it!and gave us 2 glasses,very kind!
The last few night camping have gone from bad to ridiculous.One night in Simons town was so windy that the tent flapped and sucked in and out like a blow fish.I woke to the tent literally smacking me in the face and told Chris i was off to sleep in Marco (again.)Chris muttered “this is just the weather this tent is made for,”and stayed in it.More out of macho pride that sense i recon.I spent the whole night convinced the car was being lifted off the ground in a wizard of Oz way and we both surfaced baggy eyed and irritable the next day.Conversations basically involving”you did,no you did,”e.t.c with an under current of blame attached to most sentences,tutting and dirty looks.
On our travels we have been constantly suprised by how kind people have been to us.We have concerns we look a little dosey and people are pitying us!In Simons Town a woman dropped us home in the evening even though we only popped in to use the internet.It was the windy night and she said it was too bad to walk back to the site.Really kind!
South Africa is gorgeous and we are really getting into the travelling business,we both have feet like shrek and scanky hair.My hair has gone yellow,literally the same colour as a yellow vest i have and Chris’s has just got bigger in every direction,hes looking fab though.
We are on our way to a nature reserve later and hoping for a bit of kayaking on a lagoon(again i am sorry to have to inflict this lovelyness on you)Will be in touch soon and big thankyou to everyone who is thinking of us.All is very well!Big thankyou to the Westbourne lot who gave me my St Christopher,i am wearing it all the time with the travel rune my mum gave me,so lots of good Karma i am sure.Big hello also to P.R.S.U. crowd and sorry you are having colds,you should come here it’s much warmer.We are working on making our photo’s bigger ,thankyou Walshy.I heard Babylon on our M.P.3 player (which is a little pink miracle)and it instantly reminded me of the lovely Walshies!
Right off for my second swim of the year the first being of course with my gorgeous buddies Dirty Sarah and Julie,Wet wok at drunk o’clock,miss you girls.Everything is as Mazgannons would say “Unbelievable”so far.
Nearly forgot,when we went to our car today it had been washed.No sign on it or anything so we left the B and B and have been thinking ever since,who washed our car?
Photos include Betty’s Bay specially for Chris’s nana Betty.Other ones are us with new wine glasses and posting a letter to our mums,blaze,damo and dan.aparently they should have a special post mark on them from the Old tree post office.First post in South Africa started here with explorer chap in 1500 something leaving a letter for the next explorer.Be excited! as we had to go into a museum to post them at the cost of 60 pence each entry.
Complement Soph blog 1 Nov 07 November 1, 2007
Betty’s Bay which reminded of us of our Nanna!
On Alleman’s B and B balcony – drinking wine from Wine Village, cheap but nice! In glasses given to us by Paul.
Soph’s following tradition started in 1500 by the Portugeuse of posting mail in a boot for next visitor to Mossel Bay. Special stamp on cards to our Mum’s, the Bryants , Blazi and Damo.
