Originally uploaded by chris.warn
Hello all,
Glad to see you are all blogging still.We had our highest ever stats on the last blogg with 102 hits in one day,brilliant!
Our travels have sinces continued towards Ceduna.As we drove to Ceduna we were passed several times by a huge camper-van/trailer combo with a big sign on the back saying ‘King of the Road’, we were intrigued by the fact that he kept overtaking us with dangerous manoeuvres and then slowing to let us past. Strange, to say the least, and made worse when a big road train entered the equation, with both vehicles ahead of us they started a bizarre game of cat and mouse on the narrow road, this ended abruptly with some road rage as both vehicles swerved off the side of the road and the drivers got out, we passed by necks craning to see the ensuing punch up, but missed it unfortunately. We later saw ‘The King’ pulled up in a petrol station and he was wearing a massive Stetson, but was the size of Noel Edmonds (ie v small and wiry), still it takes all sorts.
We drank quite a lot of wine at Ceduna, knowing that we had some serious driving ahead of us (the next day). The petrol has been expensive here, like everywhere else, when we left it was about 1.50 dollar a litre now about 1.70 – this is draining our resources somewhat, we’ll have to cut back on our bun consumption! This stage of our trip took us onto the Nullarbor Plains which stretch for miles, passed a sign that said ‘The Treeless Plains’ but this was patently a lie as the very next thing we saw was a bunch of trees, why lie like this? tourists aren’t ALL stupid! Well maybe a bit.
At the ‘Head of the Bight’ we turned off the highway and made our way down to the coast to see if we could see some whales, the Southern Right Whale migrates to this area in numbers at this time of year and they come to calve in the warm waters by the cliffs, for once we were in the right place at the right time to see some wild-life. We saw a sign saying there were 3 whales in the bay, so we were hopeful. As we walked out to the cliffs, the first thing that struck us was the superb view. Real wild and un-developed it was just red cliffs and ferocious sea pounding it. The next, was that there were whales ahoy! About 8 in total and we spent a good 80 minutes praying for one to come close, but they didn’t and just lept around and slapped tails about 1000 yards out to sea. Every time we got our camera out for the dramatic shot, we caught the splash which looked like every other white-horse in the bay. Still good fun, but would you believe it (lucky Soph strikes again, Lucy!) as we were walking back to the car we saw a wake in the water coming right towards where we stood on the cliff. It just kept coming and at the head we saw a dark shape in the water, then it came up for air and it was a big female. It steamed right under the cliff, maybe 50m out and rolled luxuriously around in the waves, revealing a calf by its mum’s side. Brilliant moment which I got on camera vid (poor quality but still very pleased!). That made our day really, we drove on grinning another couple of hundred Ks with a rocky escarpment on our right and the sea (getting further and further away as we headed inland) on our left. We passed through the South Aus to Western Aus quarantine check point and our euphoria was tarnished a bit, because we had to hand all our vegetables over (incl garlic and lemon, which I was going to marinade my steaks in!) AND even our red gum bee honey. Gutted! We had previously read about this rule, but for some strange reason (a mixture of arrogance and idiocy) presumed that it wouldn’t apply to US!
As if to cheer us up we drove right through a group of 10 -12 kangaroos of all sizes(not killing any) they seemed to be enjoying the dusk.Thrilled to see them alive and so many of them, maybe they do exist after all!Then we even saw an emu,this is more like it,real outback wildlife!Obviously the camera was safely tucked away in the glove compartment,nothing ever happens when we have it ready!
We stopped off at the Mundrabilla Hotel (all the stops here are hotels/petrol stations/cafes/pubs/shops and camp sites all rolled into one) and spent a cold night in the middle of knowhere in a bleak campsite with cold showers, poor! But to make up for this we had another stunning display of night sky to cheer us up, it was magnificent. Plus our only neighbours in the camp gave us some beef stew (v nice) and, would you believe it, a jar of honey – how’s that for karma.
Got up to see the sunrise which is nice, but no real time to enjoy it because we drove 840km that day (just over 500 miles) this was a record for us in the van! Heard the bizarre story of a truck driver who knocked over 6 camels in one hit in his road train, on these roads. We imagined that this has now gone down in buzzard folk-lore (tell us grandpa about the legendary 6 hump feast!). We took care with speeding so it didn’t happen to us, but I did see a very sad sight – a female kangaroo lying by the side of the road, with her Joey lying next to her, literally knocked out of the pouch and lying in the same position as its’ mother, a thin line of blood coming out of its’ ear! I didn’t tell Soph, until much later on, about that little spectacle! Teary, like the start of Bambi! We drove along Australia’s (and also the world’s) longest stretch of straight road – what can I say, not very exciting, it was long…..and straight! Passed through Norseman and turned left to Esperance, a little coastal town. We were sure glad to get there, because we were shattered by the end of that particular drive! Quiet night, slept like logs! Had a bit of an incident in the campsite looking for a corkscrew, as I entered what I thought was the camp kitchen and started rummaging around I noticed there was a bed in the cabin and that I was in someone else’s chalet, saw that the toilet door was shut and I think someone was in there, I backed out hurriedly before the cops were called!
Up the next day and decided to spend a few days here as it looked so attractive. Soph had her hair done yesterday, very nice too! And we took a look at the coastline here, which isn’t very well advertised in any of the tourist guides, but it’s fantastic. Temperature of the sea is freezing, so you can’t use the beaches, but the views are stunning. Great day yesterday, we actually did a spot of sunbathing over lunch. We found out that the town is named after the first French ship to anchor here in 1792, using the shelter of the bay. It really is amazing that Aus didn’t start as a French colony, just that they approached it from the wrong side I suppose – unlucky Monsieur! This place is also called the Bay of Islands, but, unlike the one in NZ, we could actually see it. Walked along the seafront last night and saw our second large aquatic mammal in a few days, as we walked along the refuelling pier (built in 1935 don’t you know! ) We saw a big shape in the water and it was a massive sealion! Comes there every night, but still officially a wild animal. Saw the sunset from the end of the pier and as we walked back saw that the sealion had been joined by another, they snorted and huffed around in the water begging food from the fisherman who were gutting fish at that point on the pier.
We went for a windy coastal walk this morning, which was impressive for the rollers crashing onto the rocks, then we recovered in a cafe, eating raspberry and mascarpone crumble! As we sit here in the internet cafe (no wireless to be had here) it’s blowing a hooley outside and the rain is imminent, so another quiet day for us before setting off to Perth. Will blog soon!





