On the Sub-Continent November 26, 2007

Mumbai

Originally uploaded by chris.warn

Before I forget want to mention 2 things 1) thanks to Nottley clan for the Plymouth Sloe Gin, we drank that with coke watching the Madagascan sunets and 2) when we were in Durban and jo’burg we noticed that all the elevators are built by a company called Schindler – we couldn’t believe it, i mean Schindler’s Lifts, what a great advertising campaign that must have been!
Well we arrived safely in downtown Mumbai airport, tired from the flight and Chris ironically already suffering from Madagascar belly, how cruel is that. Spent the next 2 hours trying to get some Indian currency, first time we noted the huge beaurocracy associated with any public service, forms in triplicate, entries into large bound ledgers and signatures across everything (just to change 50 dollars!). Out to our govt sponsored and allegedly safe taxi, which is shown in the photo. Place is full of ‘em, manufactured by the mechanically unsound and driven by nutters – crazy journey to the hotel 30km, the boot was so small the driver had to tie it up with string to get our rucksacks in. Did this way heavily on his mind when driving us, not a jot he absolutely barreled along. Scary journey through dark and grubs streets, saw shapes sleeping in doorways and on wooden carts propped against walls, thought initially they’d brought out their dead – still it was 26 degrees at midnight so you can understand why they do it, that and lack of housing of course. Into hotel which looked dirty on arrival but ended up being pretty good mid-range stuff. Asleep at 3, up at midday to venture out into Mumbai. Sleep interrupted by constant beeping of taxis and cars as they try and cream the pedestrians! As we walked through Mumbai to take a look at a few monuments, we witnessed two near fatal RTAs in 1 hour, amazing. It’s like one long game of chicken with people willing to risk their lives just so as not to lose face and actually move out of the way of a bus! Passed by the Naval base main gate, like the attitude, sat there smoking and playing cards all with a mass of gold braid and medals! Passed some beautiful Victorian buildings, a crescent like Bath and a catholic church all of which have not been looked after and are caked in grime. The atmosphere is something to behold, sheer noise and smell. As you walk you’ll get a whiff of inscents? which you breath in deeply, only to walk into a pocket of fetid air in mid breath, nightmare. It sticks with you the smell and we’ll be glad to leave it, it rests on your lips and fills your nose, horrible. Went to the station to try for a ticket to Jaipur and were fortunate to meet an American who told us some details (like you need your passport) and saved us waiting around. Next day we were all action, well up at 10 and out to post some parcels, interesting business. We sat with the bloke while he sewed our gifts in muslin before sending airmail. Took a while, but it was a beautiful piece of work, talked cricket with Jalpy, not sure what his role was but he shouted at the others quite a lot! Soph had been ogled pretty much from the airport, so decided to go native and buy long trousers and short dress. Looked lovely in her gear as the photo shows, but i did have to drag her away from the bazaar before she bought more (and more, and more). We also returned to the rail ticket office, where we laughed at the way all tourists have to queue together. It took HOURS and as we approached the front of the queue, we realised that time was running out atnd it was shutting soon. We saw some french girls being turned away, some Aussie girls pleading for the correct tickets, our hearts dropped this eemed so difficult. When we finally got to front with 8 minutes to spare, we basically started bowing at the waist and being as subservient as possible to the power crazed, non-english speaking old lady who was definitely ‘in charge’. We got the golden ticket though and sauntered past the poor germans behind us who were going to miss the deadline! (2 WWs, 1 world cup and a ticket, under our breath!). With that over with we spent a pleasant evening down by the water at the Gateway to India, british built they must have visited Paris first to copy the arc de triomphe, it was completed in 1924 and used by landing troops as an entry point to the Raj, ironically 24 years later they used it for the last time going in the opposite direction – poor old Pongos! The Taj Hotel was built just before by an Indian Merchant JN Tata, apparently he was turned away by a European hotel so he built his own, very cool. It stands today, overlooking the Arch and is still magnificent. We wandered in, but after a swift look at the menu prices, wandered out again pretty sharpish! The whole area by the Arch is being ripped up and a new park built leading down to it, but at the moment it looks like ground zero. Talked to a one armed Christmas Card seller for a bit on this day, he was deeply religious and said he would pray for Soph to fall pregnant which is nice, I asked him to delay that for a few months – he seemed harmless enough (come on, that was Soph not me). Soph did by some lovely China handles for our dresser and bizarrely I almost bought a sextant. Sunday was a traditional lazy day again for us, we had coffee and toast for breakfast and went for a bimble, streets seemed calmer and lots of families out and about. It is also obviously the day for young lovers, as we walked towards Chowpatty Beach (which for some reason needs to be pronounced with a Gordie accent) there were loads of courting couples. In India it is frowned upon to show public displays of affection so there are 2 results 1) young couples kind of hide from others, crouching next to some bins or behind a cart to escape prying eyes and 2) young blokes touch each other for some physical contact, this is ok with the hand holding and arms round shoulders, but come on fellas…sitting on each others laps is not going to get you a girlfriend surely? The beach area, like a lot of Mumbai, is decrepid but was probably nice once. As your eyes come back from the smoggy horizon, you see the grey/brown sludge of the bay and then the colourful muddy beach, bejewelled with a thousand plastic containers and plastic bags – horrible and people were paddling! Soph decided to combat the staring men by having a henna tattoo on her hand, this only served to increase curiosity (as she was having it done about 20 people gathered to witness it, the Indians are unashamedly nosey) it also served to ruin my t-shirt as it all came off on my back during our snugs. Although Soph seems to have picked up a cold and wanted to head for the hotel, we stayed around for the sunset along with thousands of others all sitting on the sea wall. Well, 10 minutes before true sunset, the sun set as it disappeared into the thick smog – let down. It pretty much sums up Mumbai though. Today we ahve posted some postcards and done a bit more sight-seeing, but we’re just waiting for the jaipur express to take us north at 1900. It’s a sleeper, so should be a real experience. Will let you know when we get there! Love to all and keep sending the comments, it’s not a competition, but make sure you send them under this blog!!